The two most important tools in mounting a bed are a measuring tape and some 40 grit sandpaper. Measure, re-measure and then measure again - from every possible angle. After you locate your mounting points - remove anything that looks like gel coat. Your new resin/glass will not stick to it. Scuff all mounting surfaces with 40 grit - you want the best bite possible. This includes the inside of the bed, as well. Glassin' only the outside can lead to cracks down the road.

Another great tool is cheap rubber gloves and at least a cheap mask. Work in a well ventilated area. The fumes can fuzz yer brain out...

I cut up old 1 gallon milk cartons (see below) to mix my resin in and 1/2 gallon cartons partially filled with Acetone for clean ups (less waste with the smaller container). These jugs come with a built in handle that you'll quickly learn to appreciate.

When you mount the bed, use a minimum of duraglass and remove as much of it from the surface areas as possible. I'm told you can glass over it, but I much prefer an uncontaminated area to work with. DO NOT prep the surface with any type of chemicals. Now, measure again 'cause things are about to become quite permanent.

Note: I left a couple bolts in place while I glassed my bed on, then later removed them and did some touch-up glass work to fill the holes. Scuff the new surface with 40 grit before you do your touch up work.

Before you begin, mask off all the surfaces you would like to keep glass away from - and cover the floor in your work area. Resin WILL end up in the darndest places.

Tip - do not cut glass matting. This leaves sharp edges - requires extra sanding and finishing time. Tearing your glass to shape will save you a bunch of work.

Mix your resin/hardener to recommended specs and stir it well. If properly mixed you'll have 20-30 minutes before it starts to set up. DO NOT attempt to glass if it's raining. 100% humidity and glass don't get along. Brush a coat of resin over the areas to be glassed. You can either apply dry mat to the wet surface or brush resin into the mat pieces before you apply them. Saturate the mat pieces as thoroughly as possible. Use a cheap paint brush to work the glass into the corners. Use dabbing motions. Tip - when working corners - pull the glass apart slightly to make it conform more easily to the corner area. Tightly woven glass does not go around corners easily.

Once you've got the glass in place, USE A ROLLER!! It wasn't until I started using one that I realized how great they are. Yes, they work out bubbles, but better yet - they help work the resin in and will lay the glass flat. This is a huge plus when it comes time to shape your glass work.

Remove runs or spills with a paper towel and some acetone - Don't let the acetone touch your new glass work.

I like to let the glass cure for at least 24 hours before I sand it. Use 40 grit paper to cut and shape the glass, then apply thin coats of duraglass (or putty of your choice) and sand to a finish.

You'll want to lay up about 3 good layers of glass on all mounting points. If your resin sets before you get all your layers on - let it set. Then, scruff the surface and add more layers.

I know this is long (sorry), but I hope it helps.