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| Since I had one
request, here is the info for some of you that may be interested in it.
This will be long, and have lots of pictures
I don't care if you run air bags or not. But if you are interested, I hope this will explain a little about them. And you are always welcome to email me with any question you have. To start with, there are two main types of air bags, sleeves and convoluted. Typically sleeves have less weight rating and more lift, so they get used on the rear of a car with a straight axle, in a design where they are used in a 1:1 ratio. 1" of bag travel equals 1" of axle travel. Convoluted bags, normal double convoluted, typically have a highwer weight rating and less travel. They are commonly used on the front of cars with A arms. And the rear of cars with a trailing arms suspension or IRS. Or used in situations where there is a mechanical leverage present.
![]() Sleeve bag That I use on the rear of a T installed ![]() Double convoluted bag ![]() People ask, all the time, why does it matter what air bag they use, Can't you just vary the pressure to get the ride you want ? The answer is Yes, kinda. You can stick in most any bag, and find a pressure where it rides well. But, using to big or to small of an air bag, will give a very small range where it rides good. What that means is that a few psi either way can seriously affect the ride. Or if using to large of a bag, you can get a real bouncy ride because the bag is not in it's intended range of motion. With to small of a bag, you have to put so much pressure in to lift the car to decent height, that it rides rough. Or my favorite is a large bag that is ran low on pressure, for a good ride. That also will go overly firm on a big bump. Air is a very progressive spring. Most of you are running coil overs with a straight rate. That means that if a coil spring is rated at 150#, that it takes 150# to compress it one inch. And another 150# to compress it a second inch. And another 150# to compress it another inch. 450# for 3". Well with air, to get that same 450# at 3", you may start with 100# to go one inch, 150# more for the second inch, 200# for the third inch. Where your metal spring will still be 150# to get the fourth inch, that air bag may do 300# for the fourth inch. These numbers are just made up to show how an air spring reacts differently than a metal spring. To accurately figure the rate of the air spring, you need pressure and the height that pressure is at. The major air bag suppliers have the info readily available. The last thing
I want to touch on with the air bags is port size. In this case, with
what you guys are doing, size does not matter. The port is the hole
in the bag where the air line goes in. ![]() Now for the rest
of the system.... If you have looked around at cars with air ride, you
have seen big air tanks, multiple compressors, or a single large compressor,
industrial solenoid valves, lots of gauges, switches, lots of electronics....
You don't need that. But it is fun LOL. An air ride system can be so
simple... A pair of air bags, with schrader valves to fill them will
do. ![]() But that doesn't give you the full benefit of the air ride. And that is being able to raise the car if a second passenger gets it. Or being able to raise it if you come to a large speed bump or steep drive way. So then on board air is needed. This can be very simple, or vary complex. I will explain the simplest ways here. First is an on board air compressor, and no tank. What Al has now. Firestone and air lift make a paddle switch that in a manual air switch, with an electric switch built in to turn on the compressor. With this switch, you hook the compressor air lines and wires to the switch, and when you press the switch up, the compressor comes on, and fills the bags. Push the switch down to let air out. A lot of overload air bag systems use this. ![]() Here is on installed. It is on the left. The gauge is 2" OD for a size comparison. ![]() To do a set up
like this, you need two air bags, a compressor, the previously mentioned
switch, an air gauge, 6 or 7 fittings, and a little air line. I would
also add in a small check valve. All that should be able to be purchased
for $250- 300, easily. And you will need to make your own air bag mounts,
and come up with your own wiring. ![]() This only 6" long and 5" tall. And is pretty easy to hide. Here it is in my father's car ![]() The down side to that previous system, is having to wait for the compressor to fill up the bags. I would have to run a tank. Normally you see pretty big tanks, typically 5 gallons. Maybe a couple 5's, or a 12 ( 12's are 12" in diameter, and close to 44" long). Certainly no where for one of those in a T. Well, firestone has tanks as small as 4"x6". I think they list them as ¼ or ½ gallon ( I am to lazy to look LOL. I am doing all this from memory, and the help of a couple websites that I am cut and pasting pictures from.) All you need for two small air bags is a gallon or maybe a little more. But since everyone here is resourcefull, and likes building there own parts. How about making tanks to fit the space you have ? If you are starting on a new frame, box in the rear kick up, and use it. If you are starting a new build, how about incorporating them into the body. Again, here is how my father's car got built. ![]() We took 2 pieces of 2" copper tube, about 30" long, soldered a cap on one end of each tube, and a 2 x something reducer ( ½ or ¾, I can't remember ) on the other end. And a 1/4" female bung into the reducer. And glassed them into the body. Stiffend up the lower edge of the body. Here in the desert, moisture isn't a problem. In humid areas, you may want to find a place for a drain. Adding a tank to
the system now requires a pressure switch to turn the compressor on
and off. Kinda like your home compressor has, but the ones used in air
ride are not much bigger than your thumb. So they are easy to hide.
In fact if using a thomas compressor like I posted before, air ride
companies can get a Tee that screws right into the head of the comp
(1/8" male npt), has a 1/8" npt female on the side ( for the pressure
switch), and has a 1/4" push connect for the hose on the other end.
You won't need the paddle switch with the electric switch built in.
But you will need some kind of switch/ valve. Whether it is a paddle
switch with no electric switch ( one with electric can be used, you
just won't need the wiring. So why pay the extra for it ?) Or solenoid
valves. Solenoid valves are always my choice. But now we are starting
to get expensive. There are two ways to go with these, manifold valves
or also called block valves, or diaphram valves. ![]() Or diaphram valves, cheaper, but faster. And the install is bulkier. It take one valve to lift, and another to dump. So if you want individual control on four air bags, it takes eight valves. ![]() And I will close this with Shockwaves by Air Ride Technologies. I have used them on may cars and trucks, Including on of my own. They are a nice product. And they are not cheap. They are available with 4 different sizes of bags, 2 sleeves - 7000 series & 8000 series, and two double convuted sizes. And I will close this with Shockwaves by Air Ride Technologies. I have used them on may cars and trucks, Including on of my own. They are a nice product. And they are not cheap. They are available with 4 different sizes of bags, 2 sleeves - 7000 series & 8000 series, and two double convuted sizes. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Airlift also has a
lower cost alternative I haven't used these. I quit selling airlift products
at about the same time these came out. ( I didn't quit selling their products
because they were bad, it had to do with their pricing structure, and
some BS other dealers were doing with it. Strictly a business $$$ decision.)
The price difference between these and shock waves are about $229. |
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