In my opinion... some blue on the ol' headers is OK. It suggests that, at least the engine runs. If you are really worried about it... then I suggest two sets of headers; Show Headers & Go Headers. Problem solved. Now, if you like... you can Ceramic/Metallic coat your headers. It's a nice finish, but doesn't reflect like chrome (but close) AND NO BLUE!
This is a good alternative. There are a few precautions to take regardless which way you go. Yes, Ceramic has its problems too. Both Chrome & Ceramic change physically at 1250 degrees. Chrome blues, and ceramic gets a little dull. A really good tune on the engine is your best bet. My headers are chrome and 22 years old. And they didn't turn blue until I started running 117 octane racing fuel. Now they have blue nearly to the collectors!

Pump gas shouldn't be a problem, if your jetting is correct, and your timing is correct. If it is... your pyrometric temp will hang around 1100 degrees when you get in it hard. This is acceptable for both chrome & ceramic. So tune up that engine FIRST!

I've always given this advice, the worst thing for Chrome headers is a air/ fuel mixture that is to lean, or a fuel that burns to hot. I n realliaty, 2 sets of headers would be the best fix.

If you are running pressurized aspiration... kiss your chrome  AND ceramic finish good by... Even the slightest boost will raise  the exhaust temperature beyond chromes' phyisical means. But then again, if you wanna play, you gotta pay!

Just so yo will know... Every exhaust system has a resonant frequency.  At this (unknown) frequency the pressure waves tend to pack (or compress)  somewhere in your exhaust. At this location the heat is much greater  causing your headers to blue there first, then the blue fades as the
compression expands and the temperature drops. The resonant point  on my headers is 9 inches in from the end of the collectors at approximately  4700 RPM(with the extensions & mufflers on.) Now, you can move  this resonant frequency and resonant position. In other words... you
can "TUNE" your exhaust system. A "TUNED" exhaust  system can give you up to 50 extra horsepower, which otherwise would  be lost! So you are now thinking... how do I do this? If you want  to keep the "traditional" T Bucket look, with those dirt  track style headers, you will never see 100% efficency on the exhaust.  (But who needs it) Your current exhaust is reasonably effective from   idle to around 5000 RPM then falls off like a rock. But by this time,  you are really flying down the road!   Now if you WANT that extra 50+ horsepower, you need to know something  about your current exhaust system.

1) you need to know at what RPM your headers go into resonance.

2) you need to know the location (in your headers) of the sonic  compression.

Resonance RPM is easy. If you "hold" your tranny in  first gear and gradually accellerate your T while watching the tachometer,  you should notice 2 things... at a specific RPM your engine will seem  louder and you will feel a faint vibration throughout your T. This  is your exhaust system going into resonance. But note that the resonance   will fall of quickly when you pass this RPM. (I use a decibel meter  to find the resonance RPM)  The Sonic location of the resonance is a bit more tricky. At  the location of the sonic compression, your headers are vibrating  more than the rest of the exhaust system. This is called "Amplitude".  There are two ways you can find it. You can run up & down the  exhaust system with something hard (like a screwdriver) until it bounces
frantically, or you can locate it with a pyrometer. (a pyrometer is easier to use and more accurate)

NOTE: you must be sitting still! And the engine reved up up to  resonant RPM. In order to get that elusive horsepower, you need to  move the "amplitutde" (sonic compression) as close to the
exhaust ports (on the heads)as possible. The easiest way to do this is, chunk your current headers and put ZOOMIES on. A little impractical  you say? Ok, let's try something more practical. Play with different  kinds of packing in your header extensions. Also, the location of  your extensions & muffler cells play a big roll. But here's what I did... I had two custom made Flowmasters fitted with 3 1/2" inlet/outlet with single chambers. The Flowmasters connect directly  to the header collectors (just like your header extensions). I removed  the muffler cells from the header extensions and shortened the extensions 13". This setup has moved the sonic compression to within 3" of the heads. MEGA HORSEPOWER! As of today, I am getting ready to  modify the Flowmasters (to make them removable) and then having the   whole exhaust system Ceramic/Metallic coated.

  CBandit

Yes I coated the inside of the lastest set with axle grease I have before I installed them. It seems to me it helped. I used part of an old sock and tied a long string to it and pulled it thru each tube.

Blown T

I have a T and I installed a pontiac 400 in mine. I had to fabricate my headers (because they don't make any for pontiac T's). Anyway instead of chrome I strongly suggest Jet Hot coatings, they make an assortment of colors including an aluminum finish, and they are warranted.

Ray Marazas

About the chrome blue--I personally like the look, but if ya don't, you could minimize the cause--High exaust gas temp-- Run the engine rich (helps keep everything cooler)- or--???

PA