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| The first six pics show me with the finished board and gluing the foam (EVA) 4mm in place, being careful to glue only where you don't have to cut the pattern out. Of coarse this board could be any shape, eg, the trim board for under the top roll of the bucket sides. Pic six shows the arm rest shape and how to transfer it to the board in your prefered possition. Hint, this shape arm rest should be worked on to the board in pencil Before you glue the foam on, this way you can take measurements of where you have to glue and not glue and also put the arm rest back in its correct spot when the foam is on. It is important to READ THIS TEXT FIRST and any other pics/text BEFORE you start as it will give you a better understanding of the correct procedures. |
| pic 12 &13 show me sanding the edge of the foam with eighty grit sand paper, pull the paper towards yourself and at ninty degrees to the edge to bevel it down to the board, if you try and sand the conventional way ie, back and forth, you will tear the foam. |
| Pic 14 & 15 show me gluing a piece of card board (2mm) to the back to create the final depth of the moulded section |
| pic 16 shows the trim clips i used, these are fairly common, if you design your top roll of trim seperately and then the piece to the floor like a door trim then you can use these clips to hold every thing in place, then the design you use becomes as limited as your imagination. |
| Pic 17 shows me cleaning up the area i took the excess foam away from, this surface must be free of imperfections as you will see any lumps etc under the finnished material. |
| Pic 22 shows me lining up the edge of the vinyl with the board, when you choose your material it is always best to cut it at least 2" larger all round than the size of the board. |
| Pic 23-29 show me carefully laying the vinyl down as I gently smoothe it out with my other hand, you might want to get someone to hold the excess vinyl as you go. The trick is to let the vinyl lay without tenstion so that it goes into all the nooks and crannies, also you must avoid any "fullness/wrinkles" as you smoothe things out, and try to not let any part of the glued areas to touch each other untill you get to smoothe that part. After you have successfully smoothed all the vinyl and are happy with it, you can grab what we in the trade call a"slicker", a small piece of wood or my favorite, perspex/acrylic and rub this a little firmer on an angle of approx. 45deg,( a bit like appling filler) and smoothe out everything again making sure to run your slicker into any mould line/depretions,DON'T press too hard, you will leave lines in the still drying glue. |
| Pic 37-44 show me covering the arm rest in vinyl, note the pic of the arm rest laying at 45 deg on the roll of vinyl?, thats because i wanted to trim the arm rest in one piece without seams, to do this you must cut the vinyl on what is called the BIAS, on most vinyl this is the most streatchiest. Once you have cut the vinyl out you can start at one end and put a few staples in to hold it, then streatch the vinyl to the other end of the arm rest, don't over streatch but put some effort into it, notice the vinyl wants to curl on the edges, this is what you want, staple the end off and then start working your way around the edges pulling this way then that till you get it out smoothe, then staple to suit. |
| Pic 45,46,47 shows how you attach the little yellow trim boards, cover them on one side only leaving the other side long, hold the trim board in its correct possition on the main trim board, staple through the little trim board, avoiding the yellow vinyl of coarse, then lay the long piece of yellow vinyl flat and staple it to the trim, this will be under the armrest when it goes on. |
| Pic 48 shows the arm rest screwed on from behind and 49 shows the finnished article minus the carpet on the bottom, this is such an easy technique to make a "loose" board trim that can be used any where in a bucket, a final word, start on something small and practice with different mediums, velour, streatch carpet (although carpet will work you will have to increase the depth of your mould or you will lose the pattern) anything plyable. |
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