New Engine

Milt Atkinson · Post by **Milt Atkinson** » Fri Apr 04, 2014 7:18 pm

New 347 stroker arrived last night. Got engine mated to transmission with "new" 2200 stall converter. Engine and transmission are back in car. Other things to do until final parts arrive Monday. Still trying to get everything done in time for Shreveport ... going to be close!

Post by **Lee in KC** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 8:55 am

Have you found out anything about your tranny?

Milt Atkinson · Post by **Milt Atkinson** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 9:30 am

Lee in KC wrote:Have you found out anything about your tranny?

Front pump shot and second gear bands gone. It is entirely possible it was my mistake during the install of the stall converter. Anyway, got trans rebuilt and new stall converter in ... got it right this time!

mike wade · Post by **mike wade** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 10:00 am

Milt don't feel to bad I have been there done that & don't want to do it again..................

Mike

Milt Atkinson · Post by **Milt Atkinson** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:29 pm

Engine and trans is back in ... for now ... trans might be an issue as one of the pan bolts is stripped. Going to RTV the H out of it and see if it holds. Was going to heli coil it, but it is one of the corner bolts and the threads are broken away from the main case. If the RTV doesn't do it, looks like a new trans case ... yuk!

It is always something ...

Big Bill · Post by **Big Bill** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 6:16 pm

Devcon makes a filler material that is for repairing broken casting it can be drilled and taped. Follow directions and make sure it is clean.

Bruce Pickett · Post by **Bruce Pickett** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:21 am

You can put a longer bolt through the case and add a lock washer and lock nut, that way you don't have to replace the case. Don't over tighten.

Milt Atkinson · Post by **Milt Atkinson** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:20 pm

Bruce Pickett wrote:You can put a longer bolt through the case and add a lock washer and lock nut, that way you don't have to replace the case. Don't over tighten.

Well, that is what I did last night.

Still have to mount intake and some other smaller things to do and should be able to fire the engine for the first time tomorrow. Will see then if all of this was worth it ... keep your fingers crossed!

mike wade · Post by **mike wade** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 1:32 pm

Milt Atkinson wrote:
Bruce Pickett wrote:You can put a longer bolt through the case and add a lock washer and lock nut, that way you don't have to replace the case. Don't over tighten.
Well, that is what I did last night.

Still have to mount intake and some other smaller things to do and should be able to fire the engine for the first time tomorrow. Will see then if all of this was worth it ... keep your fingers crossed!

Mike

Rolla Hessel · Post by **Rolla Hessel** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:28 pm

They do not work. In order for a lock washer to work the bolt has to be extremely loose... They were outlawed by the SAE and OEM's for any 'stress applications" in 1969. There is a thread repair porduct that can be sued, like silicone, where you put it in the stripped hole and then install the bolt. It will set up and you can still remove the bolt when needed! Have other colutions that may work as well Milt. Give me a call if you need more info. You got my #

.. Good Luck.

National T-Bucket Alliance

New Engine

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Re: New Engine - NO LOCK WASHERS!!!