Sputter, sputter

[dwleo]

very clever

[dwleo]

OK. Here is the progress from yesterday and this morning:
I re-lashed the valves (some small errors); affirmed TDC; replaced plugs; checked dist. pointer for #1 (out a tooth); set timing 12-15 deg btdc; raised idle to 900-1000rpm; checked mixture; checked vacuum 14.5 and steady .
Now it starts easy but runs slightly rough like it was missing almost (might be the cam) and rocks 1/4 to 1/2 inch when idling. When put in gear it bogs down to 750-800 rpm and does not sound happy. But step on gas (brakes on) and it perks up. Might have to up the idle some more. As my ex-father-in-law used to say "listen to the pipes for 'mommydaddymommydaddy'mommydaddymommydaddy'mommydaddymommydaddy' and that is definitely there.

Just going to take it out for a run and see how it all plays together.
To be continued later.

OK. Back from run. Odd backfire drivers side pipes and a lot both pipes while warming up. Choke problem I assume. It's hesitant to drop down in gears approaching a stop and starts to bog down and I have to tap the gas to recover. Also slight hesitation while driving and I add more gas but it does recover.
Thoughts?

[dwleo]

Start with the basics!
Have you check your timing? Initial and total? At what RPM do you reach total
advance? You might even need to verify TDC to make sure it’s correct on the
balancer. If it’s not right then none of your numbers are right.

Are the float levels are correct?

Is the transition slot adjusted correctly? If it’s not correct, then you will be
chasing the wrong problem. Many times with a more radical camshaft the idle
has to be set higher for the engine to idle without dying, but then the transition
slot is open too far. You will have to pull the carburetor off to check this
adjustment, since it’s viewed from the bottom side.

http://tmpcarbs.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

ExcessTransitionSlot.jpg
CorrectTransitionSlot.jpg

Buy a couple of books and do some reading.
https://www.amazon.com/Build-Power-Holl ... tor+tuning

https://www.amazon.com/Holly-Carburetor ... tor+tuning

https://www.amazon.com/Holley-Carbureto ... tor+tuning

Well, like you said.
I found a vacuum leak at the rear of the carb so off it came and I took the time to check the transition slot as you suggested.
Here's a pic of mine.



Obviously I have some adjustments to do.

[Indycars]

OK. Here is the progress from yesterday and this morning:
(1) I re-lashed the valves (some small errors); affirmed TDC; replaced plugs; checked dist. pointer for #1 (out a tooth); set timing 12-15 deg btdc; raised idle to 900-1000rpm; checked mixture; checked vacuum 14.5 and steady .

Now it starts easy but runs slightly rough like it was missing almost (might be the cam) and rocks 1/4 to 1/2 inch when idling. When put in gear it bogs down to 750-800 rpm and does not sound happy. But step on gas (brakes on) and it perks up. Might have to up the idle some more. As my ex-father-in-law used to say "listen to the pipes for 'mommydaddymommydaddy'mommydaddymommydaddy'mommydaddymommydaddy' and that is definitely there.

Just going to take it out for a run and see how it all plays together.
To be continued later.

(2) OK. Back from run. Odd backfire drivers side pipes and a lot both pipes while warming up. Choke problem I assume. It's hesitant to drop down in gears approaching a stop and starts to bog down and I have to tap the gas to recover. Also slight hesitation while driving and I add more gas but it does recover.
Thoughts?

(1) Is your distributor vacuum advance connected to Ported Vacuum or Manifold Vacuum. The latter will give you a faster idle and so doing may solve your problem with the transition slots being open too far. BTW, I don't find where the QuickSlayer comes in a 650 CFM version. I was looking for the baseline settings for your carburetor, like the specs below for the 750 CFM Slayer.
.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... er_series/
.

QF_VacuumPorts.jpg (7.77 KiB) Viewed 341 times

QuickSlayer750CFM_Baseline.JPG (88.56 KiB) Viewed 341 times

.

About that idle rpm, that sounds high for the camshaft you described. Do you have the spec for your cam? My Crower 00471 camshaft is 236°/240° duration at .050. The lift is .555/.560 and it idles nice at about 850 rpm.

(2) You need to know the overall health of your engine, do a compression check or leak down test. It should not be backfiring thru the exhaust, there is a problem. There is a proper way to conduct such a test, make sure you know the details before you start testing. If the engine is NOT healthy, then all this tuning is out the window.
Compression tester is only about $20.
.
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-Comp ... ion+tester
.

CompressionTester.jpg (8.52 KiB) Viewed 341 times

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Crower_HR_00471_555_560.JPG (81.58 KiB) Viewed 341 times

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[dwleo]

OK. Been away for a bit.
UPDATE:
I went for testing but failed on two items. The inspector saw a drop of brake fluid on the rf brake housing and a drop on the bottom of the master cylinder. I explained that In had just previously bled the brakes but he has to see it dry when it arrives at his shop. Second item was a drop of gas on the electric fuel pump. That was just a fitting that was in need of tightening more. He said no big deal but it can't have any of that when it enters the shop for inspection. I have 30 days to rectify which I have done. Go back for inspection on July 6th. I also talked to him and his co-workers about the troubles with the carb They weren't too much help so I contacted the dealer where I purchased it so long ago. SHAZAM! they gave me a new one to try and if it was good just give them the old one. Took it home, strapped it on and instant start with a few minor adjustments to make. Very happy about that.
So now on this beautiful sunny day, I am just listening to the car run and doing a bit of cleanup. Every now and then, I get a whiff of gas and for once, it wasn't in my exhaust. Then I see a puddle on the manifold. Shut down, wipe it all up and put some brown paper in the area of the leak. Activated the pump and found the leak. On my fuel rail is an allen bolt and the gas is coming out all around it. I cannot get it tighter so I took it off, checked it and reinstalled but still have a leak. I tried some thread blocker on it but to no avail. Thoughts?

[mike wade]

Rector Seal #5 will work but put it on in the evening and wipe the excess then let it set all night should be good to go......

[Indycars]

I have heard of Rector Seal many times, but have never used it before. Looks to be a excellent solution to the leak that dwleo needs to seal.

http://www.rectorseal.com/rectorseal-no-5/

RectorSeal® No. 5® (Number 5®)

Multi-purpose pipe thread sealant

RectorSeal® No. 5® pipe thread sealant is a soft-set, slow drying compound which seals, lubricates, and protects threaded pipe and fittings. It can be pressurized immediately for piping up through 2″ and 100 psi(for natural gas, air and water only) and is ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and gases, including potable water applications. Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced and PVC pipe.Not recommended for use with ABS,CPVC pipe or oxygen, chlorine and other oxidizers.
.

RectorSeal#5.jpg (98.7 KiB) Viewed 304 times

.

[Indycars]

SHAZAM! they gave me a new one to try and if it was good just give them the old one. Took it home, strapped it on and instant start with a few minor adjustments to make. Very happy about that.

Did it fix your problem with the backfiring during cold operation? What RPM does it idle at now?

[dwleo]

OK. Inspection is tomorrow and I think everything is good. I used permatex 2 to seal the allen bolt and it worked perfectly.

Now to clear up some other items in my posts:
After changing the carb there has been no turning back. Just came back from a jaunt and it performed admirably well. It kept wanting to have its head but I am still getting used to this beast. A cramped one at that. Stays running when it is braked to a stop and doesn't die out. Idles around 800 - 900 RPM and seems happy. Cruising down the road and hit the gas - no hesitation. Just gone.
After inspection, I will wait until the weather turns crappy to pull the heads. If I didn't mention it earlier, that is where my oil leak is coming from. Rear of the heads and dripping off the back of the block. With the oil being super clean, you just don't see it to well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, to all who offered advice and had patience with me.

[Indycars]

After inspection, I will wait until the weather turns crappy to pull the heads. If I didn't mention it earlier, that is where my oil leak is coming from. Rear of the heads and dripping off the back of the block. With the oil being super clean, you just don't see it to well.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, to all who offered advice and had patience with me.

I'm having a hard time visualizing how it could leak oil from the head gasket if it's running ok. I'm sure you have already checked the valve cover gasket. Hummmmm thinking!